Not all Rosehip oils are the same. Rosa canina or Rosa rubiginosa?
Rosehip oil is one of the best-known plant oils used in skincare. But did you know that the term rosehip oil can refer to oils derived from different rose species?
In cosmetics, rosehip oils derived from Rosa canina and Rosa rubiginosa, among others, are commonly used. Although both are called rosehip oil, they come from different species of rose.
The composition of rosehip oil can vary depending on the plant species, whether the oil is obtained from the seeds or the whole fruit, as well as growing conditions and the extraction method used.
Rosa canina is the best-known source of Rosehip oil
Rosa canina, also known as dog rose, is a common rose species across Eurasia and is widely used in the production of rosehip oil.
A comprehensive review published in Frontiers in Pharmacology in 2024 examined different rose species and the use and research of rosehips in dermatology.
The review identifies Rosa canina as one of the most extensively studied species. Research has explored a range of compounds found in rosehips, including vitamins, fatty acids, phenolic compounds, carotenoids and other bioactive compounds.
Rosa rubiginosa
Rosa rubiginosa is also known as Rosa eglanteria and Rosa mosqueta. It is a different species of rose from the more commonly used Rosa canina.
Rosa rubiginosa seed oil is characterized by a high proportion of unsaturated fatty acids. Its key fatty acids include linoleic acid, an omega 6 fatty acid, alpha linolenic acid, an omega 3 fatty acid, and oleic acid, an omega 9 fatty acid.
Rosa rubiginosa contains trans retinoic acid, an active form of vitamin A
What makes Rosa rubiginosa particularly interesting is that studies have found small amounts of trans retinoic acid, also known as tretinoin, an active form of vitamin A, in its seed oil.
In a 2006 study published in the Journal of the American Oil Chemists' Society, Jacqueline Concha and her colleagues examined Rosa rubiginosa seed oil, referred to in the study as Rosa affinis rubiginosa.
The researchers compared three extraction methods: conventional cold pressing, enzyme-assisted cold pressing and organic solvent extraction. The amount of tretinoin in the oil was also measured.
The conventional cold-pressed oil contained 0.357 mg/L of tretinoin, the enzyme-assisted cold-pressed oil 0.324 mg/L, and the oil obtained through organic solvent extraction 0.051 mg/L.
Cold-pressed oil was therefore found to contain approximately seven times more tretinoin than oil obtained through solvent extraction.
Floritar’s Radiant Red Berries Facial Oil also contains cold-pressed Rosa rubiginosa seed oil.
What does research say about the benefits of Rosehip for the skin?
Trans retinoic acid is, however, only one aspect of the research on rosehips. In 2024, Frontiers in Pharmacology published a comprehensive peer reviewed review bringing together research on rosehips and their potential dermatological applications.
The review covers research on different rose species and the potential dermatological benefits of compounds found in rosehips. The interest in rosehip for skincare is not based on a single compound. The review discusses, among others, fatty acids, carotenoids, tocopherols, vitamins and phenolic compounds.
The research reviewed explores rosehips in relation to skin ageing, collagen synthesis, hyperpigmentation, inflammatory processes, skin barrier function, wound healing and skin changes caused by UV radiation.
It is important to note, however, that the figure does not mean that all of these effects have been demonstrated for a single rose species. The review brings together research on different rose species, plant parts, oils, extracts and study designs. The review also discusses research on Rosa rubiginosa and earlier literature on trans retinoic acid. The 2006 study therefore forms part of a much broader body of dermatological research on rosehips.
Why does Floritar use Rosa rubiginosa seed oil?
Floritar's Radiant Red Berries Facial Oil contains specifically Rosa rubiginosa seed oil.
We chose this particular rosehip oil because of its interesting composition and research background.
The fatty acid composition of the batch of oil we use has also been analysed. When compared with the cold-pressed Rosa rubiginosa seed oil analysed in the 2006 study, there are some interesting similarities.
The linoleic acid and oleic acid levels in particular are very similar. The oil used by Floritar, however, contains a higher proportion of alpha-linolenic acid.
The similarity in fatty acid composition does not, however, mean that the tretinoin content of the oil used by Floritar is the same as that reported in the 2006 study. Determining this would require a separate analysis of the specific batch of oil we use.
What makes rosehip oils different?
The name rosehip oil may sound straightforward, but what is actually inside the bottle can vary considerably. The properties of the oil are influenced by the rose species, the part of the plant used, the extraction method and any further processing of the oil.
Rosehip oil used in cosmetics can be derived, for example, from Rosa canina or Rosa rubiginosa. The oil can be obtained from the seeds alone or from the whole fruit. Oil made from the whole fruit is generally more intensely coloured due to the carotenoids and other natural pigments found in the fruit, while seed oil is particularly rich in essential fatty acids.
The extraction method also makes a difference. Rosehip oil can be cold-pressed, CO₂-extracted or solvent-extracted. A 2006 study on Rosa rubiginosa provides an interesting example: 0.357 mg/L of trans retinoic acid, or tretinoin, was measured in cold-pressed seed oil, compared with 0.051 mg/L in solvent-extracted oil. In the same study, however, the fatty acid composition did not change in a comparable way between the different extraction methods.
Rosehip oil can also be unrefined or processed in different ways. Processing can affect factors such as the oil’s colour, scent, stability and level of impurities, while some of its naturally occurring compounds may also be reduced. Unrefined therefore does not automatically mean better in every situation, and a more intense colour alone is not an indication of oil quality.
Take a closer look at the INCI list
When choosing skincare containing rosehip oil, it is worth looking beyond the words rosehip oil on the front of the packaging. The INCI list may tell you which rose species is used and whether the ingredient is a seed oil or a fruit oil. The extraction method, however, is generally not revealed by the INCI name.
Rosehip oil is therefore not one single oil. Where it comes from and how it is produced influence the oil that ultimately ends up on your skin.
Have you used rosehip oil in your skincare routine? Share your experience or leave your questions in the comments.